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Monday, July 13, 2009

Varanasi and the Manikarnika Ghat






It is a city which liberates soul from human body to ultimate. Death in Kashi is Liberation. In fact the extension of this belief could be visualised in the early concept of ‘ Pancha Trirtha’ symbolically identified with the human body - it is explicitly equated with the fire elements (Panch Tattva) of which body is composed of.

Ghats of Varanasi are natural supplement to the concept of divinity.

Someone told me that our yatra would be complete with the Abhishekam at Rameswaram with Ganga water from Varanasi and bringing the sands from Rameswaram and mix it in Ganga. I wrote about that Abhishekam in my older posts. I carefully brought the sands in a small bag. Mentioned this to the priest Sivakumar and he said that it should be done only in Manikarnika ghat.
There was a young man who was trying to get some business from us since our arrival trying to talk us into hiring him for a local tour of the Temples etc. We had met him and used his services in our previous visit. So, this time, we did not want to yield to that. Now he was appointed by the priest to take us to the specified location to take a dip and mix the sand. He came with us in the auto rickshaw and then we walked through the narrow and very dirty streets. Took a boat to go near the bathing area. You can see open sewer flowing into the river. I started feeling very uncomfortable about my dip in that ghat. In addition, this is where (near by) the cremation etc is done. Anyway, we had a dip. The waters were clean and there were others enjoying the dip. I had to hold Nirmala firmly and push her into the waters, for her to be completely wet. Rao and I together took the 3 immersions. All this was done fully clothed. We returned to the boat, wiped ourselves with the towels and returned to the banks.
It was Sivarathri day. After our return to the choultry, Rao spoke with the priest about the evening darsan, pooja etc. Well, they were are going to meet in a certain part of a certain temple and recite Rudram all night. Here it goes again. Women are not allowed. Nirmala and I were tired anyway. We decided to stay in the room. I sang bhajans and Nirmala listened. In the afternoon, there was a street parade sponsored by local businesses. It can be compared to a Halloween costume parade. There was an old man (beggar? homeless?) sitting on the one side of that road and people were throwing lots of food on him. He was evidently high with something. I have never seen anything like that anywhere in my life.
Nirmala and I went to bed after our devotional sessions. I will write about Rao's all night Rudram experience in my next post.

P.S. I was soooo worried about infections and contaminations after the dip in the ghat. Believe it or not, that ganga water must be so medicinal, none of us got even cold. No wonder it is called a sacred river.

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